Nuri’s, which is located directly across from the Neka Museum north of Ubud, is a typical warung (small restaurant) in terms of appearance but that is the only thing that is typical. Nuri’s can best be described as the Cheers of Bali. A favorite hangout (near as I can tell and according to several reports) of the ex-pat crowd. We pull up and park on the side off the road about halfway off. (Another common practice in Bali, you want to park? Park! Hell it’s the other guy’s problem if he can’t get around. This is also a useful practice if you happen to be angry with your neighbor who needs room for tour busses to maneuver. ) So we get out and we are greeted by Brian. "Hey Matt, hey Blake. Nice to meet you." Brian is an ex-pat from New York that has that friendly direct manner that only New Yorkers have. We sit down at the bar, honking traffic jam ensuing in the background, order some food (burgers and beer) and Matt points out Antar the dog, owner of Bali Joe. (Someone pipes up, "The brains of Bali Video", but I won’t say who) Bali Video is a local production house down the street from Nuri’s that near as I can tell does everything from souvenir videos for the local river rafting concern to promotional pieces, documentaries, and

commercials. Joe and Steve (and Antar) own Bali Video. "Well if Antar is here, Joe won’t be far behind". Sure enough Joe pulls up with two associates, Sam and Mick. Joe is the typical California surfer dude, tall thin, blond, easy going, with a definite surfer drawl. "Hey Joe", "Dude, I’ve been looking for you". (isn’t everyone ?) He sits down talking about this girl or that shoot (he had a job documenting a kayak trip down a river in Borneo. "I would NOT recommend this") Several days come and go like this. I wake up to pet store sounds, sit on the porch drinking tea and reading that book on quantum physics that I have wanted to read. Take a stroll and listen to the call of the state bird, say hello to some giggling Balinese ladies. Some lady from Singapore tries to pick me up. Only in Bali.

Back at Nuri’s this time at lunch. Joe and Sam (and Antar) show up. He and Sam have been working hard and managed to cut 3 minutes worth of video so far today. (They obviously have a lot more to go) We chat a little bit more. The conversation moves to my favorite subject, gun control (of which Joe and I are diametrically opposed.) (Don’t worry Joe, I wont hold it against you) and then he says "hey, we’re goin’ on a hash run tomorrow. We meet around 3:30, you can come if you want" Instantly I freeze. Surfer dude, hash, run, all in the same sentence. My mind runs wild. I think "Are you asking me to go on a trip to get illegal drugs? Man, I’m only here a few days and I run into the sixties counter culture. I’m gonna get arrested and thrown into some prison. Do they execute drug criminals here? Na, they probably just stone you on the spot and conveniently leave you at the base of a cliff or in a rice field, the apparent victim of a piece of farm machinery." (The fact that they don’t have much farm machinery is beside the point. ) My actual question is more tactful. "So, what’s that?" "Bunch of people get together, run trying to follow a paper trail. Afterwards we’ll get together and drink beer. It’s fun" O K. I’m still a little unsure. Did he say tonight, or? Is it JUST running and JUST drinking beer? I ask several others who give me more details. I go to Brian and ask. "Have you heard about a Hash Run?" "Sure ! It's a good time. Most everyone who's done it says it was the highlight of their trip" "So what do you do?" I ask cautiously hoping for confirmation. "Well a bunch of people get together and run a trail, there is a keg at the end and afterwards a bunch of people come back here for dinner." It IS JUST running and JUST drinking beer. That’s a relief. All I have to worry about is breaking my neck and dying of alcohol poisoning. OK, I’m game.

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Text and Photography Copyright © 1999 Blake Holliday. All rights reserved.